Factoid/2001/12/11
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< Beachapedia:Factoid | 2001 | 12
Formation of Waves
- "Let us begin the life story of a wave with a perfectly smooth water surface such as a mirror-like pond. Suddenly a breeze begins to blow. Waves are born as the air pressure on the surface changes and the frictional drag of the moving air against the water creates ripples. Once a ripple has formed, there is a steep side against which the wind can press directly. Now the energy can be transferred from air to water more effectively and the small waves grow rapidly." (Excerpt from the book, WAVES AND BEACHES, by Willard Bascom, Anchor Books, 1980, pg. 40)
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