Factoid/2001/12/12
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< Beachapedia:Factoid | 2001 | 12
Formation of Waves, Part 2
- "As the waves continue to grow, the surface confronting the wind becomes higher and steeper and the process of wave building becomes more efficient - up to a point, that is, for there is a limit on how steep a wave can be. Steepness is the ratio of the height of a wave to its length and the limit is about 1:7." (Excerpt from the book, WAVES AND BEACHES, by Willard Bascom, Anchor Books, 1980, pg. 41)
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