Factoid/2005/09/09
From Beachapedia
< Beachapedia:Factoid | 2005 | 09
Depth of Water Always Changing in the Surf Zone
- "The effect of groups of breakers of alternating height is to raise and lower the average water level in the surf zone. The rise is somewhat exaggerated because the volume of water transported into the surf zone is proportional to the square of the breaker height." - excerpt from the book, Waves and Beaches, by Willard Bascom, Anchor Books, 1980, pg. 224.
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