Factoid/2008/07/11
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< Beachapedia:Factoid | 2008 | 07
Mark Twain (Almost) Surfing in Hawaii
- "I tried surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got the board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed the connection myself. The board struck the shore in three-quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me." - excerpt from Mark Twain's book, Roughing It, published in 1872.
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