Factoid/2005/01/06
From Beachapedia
< Beachapedia:Factoid | 2005 | 01
Jack London's Advice on the Royal Sport of Surf-Riding
- "Go to. Strip off your clothes that are a nuisance in this mellow clime. Get in and wrestle with the sea; wing your heels with the skill and power that reside in you; bit the sea's breakers, master them, and ride upon their backs as a king should. And that is how it came about that I tackled surf-riding. And now that I have tackled it, more than ever do I hold it to be a royal sport." - excerpt from Jack London's book, The Cruise of the Snark, published in 1911, available for reading in its entirety at http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/etext01/crsnk10.txt
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